River Walk

Barge House Street, London, SE1
Tel: 020 7928 2884

Type of cuisine: Pan Asian

There's no doubt that the Oxo Tower ought to be the ideal venue for an aspiring new restaurant. Stunning views, a landmark piece of real estate, and convenient access for the hungry hordes would, normally (all other things being equal), result in instant success for almost any half-decent restaurateur. So perhaps there's a lingering curse hovering over the second floor of the Oxo Tower, which seems to be keeping the punters away. Richard Neat's eponymous venture failed within months (situated in the same space), and the new incumbent, River Walk, has just had to change its menu to appeal to a "wider crowd". When we arrived, the curse seemed to be in full effect - a mere handful of people were scattered thinly around the elegant room, each table being attended by a small army of waiters. But, for this restaurant it was early days.

You'll be seated in either a plush booth ("good for viewing the room" observed our eager waiter), or a window table, which provides rather more romantic views over the Thames and the dome of St Paul's. The room itself is large and tasteful in subdued burgundy, with over-sized leather chairs and an evolving collection of (slightly pretentious) modern art on the walls.

The updated menu, best described as "pan Asian", aims for informality and dishes tend to arrive "as the chef sees fit". We started with ox tail, wonton and coconut appetisers, which were fabulous indications of the meal to come, followed by first courses of salt and pepper squid (

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