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Alan McColm

Alan McColm is QFOL's Restaurant Critic and Travel reviewer. Alan is working all over the country ... more

 

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A Fish Called Walter

The Walters Arms has been a part of my life for the best part of thirty years, my first appointment as a skinny fresh faced teacher at Bearwood College, situated opposite, was in August 1974, a mere lifetime ago. The pub with its quant charms and attractive menu has seen many owners over that period, and the adjoining building has operated under differing guises, the latest being A Fish Called Walter, a themed Mediterranean restaurant with, as the name suggests, a strong leaning towards fish, with the opportunity to try other dishes available.

Sue and I accepted the invitation from Head Chef Joseph Pestana to dine on a beautiful Friday evening in late May, with the attractive gardens allowing us to have a drink at one of the garden tables under the latter stages of the warm sun. A chilled glass of white reading an attractive menu is always a great start to any meal, let alone being bathed in sunshine as you do it! The relaxed atmosphere was underlined by the arrival of the pub dog and cat to check out the diners for the evening as we decided on our dishes for the evening.

Restaurant Manager Sergio took us through the menu as well as offering a balanced and well priced wine list. Sue going through her 'Chilean phase' plumped for the Cabernet Sauvignon, her wine education is continuing and she persistently amazes me with her luck in selecting some wonderful wines on our journeys around the tables of the land.

Sue went for the Walters Insalata as a starter, a house special which consists of fine leaves, roasted sweet peppers, olives, avocado, all crowned with stilton crumbs and served with lemon vinaigrette. A very attractive dish, fresh, colourful and balanced although Sue would have possible have found an alternative cheese if preparing this herself. I had a royal portion of King Scallops, beautifully presented on a bed of spinach and lemon grass. The scallops were pan fried to perfection, and having enjoyed scallops in a range of restaurants recently these were among the best I've found.

Not withstanding that we were in a fish restaurant I'm certain that there are many more scallop dishes around at the moment, hand dived, pan fried, king, queen, a veritable army of culinary opportunities available on starter and main plates across this and other countries.

After complementing Sue on the excellent wine, the smooth red was duly noted for future reference, the main courses arrived in style. Sue had chosen the Tarragon Lemon Sole Parcels, two of them dominating the plate, complete with spring onions and mushrooms with a light lemon butter flavour. Full of flavour and taste, with the tarragon adding to the fish to create an enjoyable and satisfying main course. My selection was the Whole Lemon Sole, grilled to perfection with olive oil, lemon juice and crushed black pepper. The Lemon Sole, head removed, was moist, tender and had the twin pillars of black pepper and lemon to add to the appeal. The bones were easily removed to allow the dish in its entirety to be enjoyed alongside the accompanying Lyonnaise Potatoes and Vegetable Timbale that is served alongside all dishes.

With a Mediterranean theme, supported by an extensive collection of paintings depicting fish of all colours and sizes, and a table overlooking the garden with the French doors remaining open throughout the evening we could have been in a foreign land some three or more hours away.

Desserts were announced by the waitress, changing regularly throughout the year. The range of choices was sufficient to capture our attention, with Sue being drawn to the fresh fruit salad, 'with a tiny amount of cream.' This was a fitting finale, with fruit, and an exciting collection of ripe fruit on offer, being a healthy and satisfying end to an evening visit to a foreign land, one situated five minutes drive from our home. Excellent espresso coffees ensured our short journey home was full of warm and pleasant memories.

A Fish Called Walter is a success, even more so on warm summer evenings and long lingering lunchtimes under the blue skies, they have an impressive Lunch Menu and details of the restaurant, including an excellent map, can be found on www.fishcalledwalter.co.uk and booking can be taken on 01189 795888. You can find the restaurant on Bearwood Road, Sindlesham, less than five minutes from the M4 motorway, but a million miles away in terms of peace and relaxation in this friendly fish restaurant.

A great plaice to dine!!

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