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This is a unique restaurant, and for a whole variety of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that I left the restaurant late on a February Friday evening with a case of their finest wine in the boot of my car. More of that later!
I was actually introduced to this restaurant, some 20 miles from my home, by a golfing partner, Derek, and his wife Sue. Having known them for years and shared their taste in food both here and abroad, it was their recommendation that caused me to first make contact with Jason Conway, co-owner and visionary behind this outstanding gem in the countryside. Jason is co-owner with Richard Hobson, the chef at Bistro Roque and wise as well as shrewd investor Duncan Spence, current owner of Rickety Ridge Winery, suppliers to the restaurant.
Jason invited me to visit the Bistro Roque twice in our very first conversation. He explained that the restaurant offered a range of culinary activities at various times during the course of the week, with Sunday afternoon devoted to a sumptuous buffet, 'very different from other restaurants' in the words of mine host, and how true those few words were upon our initial visit to Kintbury. The second visit was to savour the delights of a Friday evening dinner, seeing the jewel in a different light and in differing circumstances.
Finding the Bistro Roque, situated a few minutes from the A4 between Newbury and Hungerford was easy; the detailed map on the web site as well as road signs delivered us to the busy car park on our Sunday Buffet visit. Always a good sign, a car park is an indication of the nature of the restaurant, from the quality of the cars as well as the quantity!
The interior was a combination of the old and the new, a blend providing a perfect reflection of Bistro Roque, offering different opportunities for diners, ably supported by excellent food and professional service under the experienced leadership of Jason Conway. A quick tour of the showed Sue and I the wood panelled rooms reflecting the heritage of the restaurant, The Avery Suite offering a private dining room for up to sixteen people in a delightful setting, ideal for private parties or small business conferences. From there we went straight to the extensive conservatory, light, airy and full of colour and a wonderful sight, beautifully colour co-ordinated and display of flowers and plants reminiscent of Kew Gardens. Bustling with people meeting for lunch, celebrating an anniversary or simply escaping from the Aga filled kitchens of the country house in Hampshire with the children and the au pair, this was a real dining room, one providing a real platform for culinary delight, and this was before we had uncovered the buffet.
A glass of lager for me and a non alcoholic cocktail for Sue gave us time to savour the view, one of a constant flow of regulars visiting the buffet, helping themselves to a veritable feast of food, beautifully prepared and presented with the skill of an artist. This certainly was a buffet without equal, echoing the initial words of Jason when issuing his invitation. The food on offer, constantly refreshed by Richard Hobson, chef, included cold meats, prawns, spiced chicken, fresh fruit, rice, salads, Mediterranean vegetables, and a wide selection of fish, fresh bread and pickles. And they were merely the starters! Diners were actively encouraged to make return visits, with fresh plates offered to willing participants.
Main courses were kept hot in large serving dishes, and they included sole, roast beef, ham and curried goat, with hot vegetables, roasted and boiled new potatoes and extremely tasty vegetables, again constantly refreshed under the attentive eye of the chef, offering each diner encouragement and guidance to those newcomers to the buffet.
We had asked Jason for guidance on wine, and after a short consultation he left for the cellar, returning with a bottle of Rickety Bridge Shiraz, one of his favourite and most popular wines. Sue tasted the wine, burst into a broad smile and announced that she had arrived in heaven; such was the quality of this juicy, complex and smooth South African wine. Rarely have I heard such positive comments from Sue, a wine enthusiast, and I thought this was a reflection of Bistro Roque, understated but magnificent, lovely touches but certainly not pretentious. A real gem, finely cut, the many shining facets offering a differing perspective, evenings for ladies, sumptuous buffets, fine dining evenings, wine tasting and, at all times, service levels and food reflective of rosettes and awards, that must be en route, the inspectors having failed thus far to follow the crowds as well as the signs!
We returned to the book filled room housing the buffet to sample the desserts, and what magnificent desserts they were. Lemon brulees, strawberry cheesecakes, fresh fruit salads, all created in the kitchen, were on offer and we were again encouraged to try more than one. Unable to resist temptation we sauntered back to our seats in the conservatory full of joy, with more than enough on our plates, having been actively encouraged by Richard Hobson! Delightful, tasty, enjoyable and satisfying, what more descriptive and accurate language could be used to describe this buffet, culminating in the finale of delectable desserts. This together with a second glass of Shiraz reflecting the treasures of South Africa enabled us to reflect on the benefits of Bistro Roque.
We were still discussing them when we arrived home after thirty five minutes along the A4, determined to ensure that the delights of this restaurant in the countryside reaches out to a wider audience. If that means that we may not be able to secure a table on our next intended visit then that will be a just penalty for extolling the many virtues of the Bistro Roque. If there was ever room for a fourth investor to join the outstanding team of Jason Conway, Richard Hobson and Duncan Spence then you may well find me at the head of the queue!
Well, just to let you know that by the time you are reading this review Sue and I will have returned a second time to enjoy a Friday evening at the restaurant and I will let you know of the results of our visit. And I'll let you know about that case of wine!!
You can book the Bistro Roque on 01488 658398 or you can look at their website on www.bistroroque.co.uk
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Alan McColm is QFOL's Restaurant Critic and Travel reviewer. Alan is working all over the country ... more
