Dunbrody was our next destination, situated in Co Wexford close to the Hook peninsula, near the southern coast of Ireland. I had heard a great deal about the place beforehand and Sue had also investigated the close proximity to Waterford, a place of beauty as well as being the home of the world famous glass manufacturer. She made her intentions crystal clear!
The centre piece of Dunbrody is the magnificent Georgian Manor House, going back to 1830, with more than twenty rooms on offer, including a number of suites. The driveway, winding though attractive woodland, leads the visitor to an impressive entrance giving a taste of what is to come. A sizeable entrance hall again manned by a single antique desk ensured a personal, relaxed registration, with newspapers and calls on order.
Luggage and bags were picked up for us and we followed the staff up the stairs, with the door opening to The Bluebell Suite, our base for our overnight stay, a stunning suite with a personal balcony as well as space, comfort and the modern style which captivated Sue. The suite was simply magnificent, the kind of room you encounter only a few times on your travels, one that you would like to stay in permanently. With an entrance area, a lounge area with television and DVD player and dining table, fresh flowers, as well as an extensive bed, all supported with a sizeable bathroom with bath and shower. All this, decorated in a beautiful light blue with matching furnishings, together with a private balcony, opening out to enjoy extensive views over the gardens and beyond to the sea made us realise exactly what Dunbrody had to offer.
Kevin and Catherine Dundon run this sheer gem, a stylish small hotel with an outstanding restaurant with stunning views and gardens to stroll around before or after dinner. Kevin enjoys an unrivalled reputation as a chef in this country and indeed his reputation is rapidly expanding as he was making arrangements to travel to board the Queen Mary as guest Chef for a short period. Whilst I was there he was just putting the finishing touches to a feature for the Sunday Times magazine. You will read a great deal more about this charismatic and humorous chef, we certainly enjoyed his company after our evening meal and the following morning as he gave us a tour of his expanding estate.
The weather was so warm here, the sun still showering us with warmth in the early part of the evening I had a walk around the grounds to view the gardens as well as the views across the bay before savouring the delights of a glass of chilled white sat outside on one of the patio tables, a sheer delight! So seldom are we able to combine the twin pleasure of chilled white wine under a hot blue sky without a length and expensive flight to foreign lands. Here I was less than two hundred miles from home enjoying the delights of these two intertwined pleasures without a care in the world. Well, there was one, actively encouraging Sue to leave the splendour of her new room to join me for a drink before dinner. She was in love, not with Tom Cruise, Hugh Grant or John Travolta, the previous subjects of her affectionate overtures, albeit from a distance. Here she was having a lingering passionate affair with The Bluebell Suite and there was little I could do about it!
Eventually she did succumb to the lure of the menu, joining me for a gin and tonic before the great selection game, what to have for dinner.
I succumbed to the Vegetable soup of the day whilst Sue, started with the Pan Seared Fillet of Marinated Monkfish with coriander scented pickled garden cucumber ribbons and a Rocket pesto. My soup, served with a selection of freshly made bread, was delightful, lightness of touch, full of flavour with yet another example of simple, home produced vegetables, magically prepared in the kitchen, yet presented with such simplicity. They say everything goes full circle, the very reason why I keep my flared trousers in the loft. Nouvelle Cuisine is fine, and may I say highly enjoyable, many memorable meals have been enjoyed against this backdrop. Yet here was another example, perfectly executed, where simplicity was paramount, with outstanding results. So much so that I almost signed sue up for one of the forthcoming cookery schools on offer!
Sues starter, again supported with local produce, was delightful. Fish, clearly the main act in the starter was cooked to perfection, full of flavour but ably supported by the cucumber ribbons, both the colour and taste supported the monkfish with style and substance, I did manage to attract a little onto my side plate , for tasting purposes only. The rolls were magnificent, if only I could have regular access to such bread at home!
Catherine, Restaurant manager and co-owner alongside husband Kevin, ensured our comfort, seeking any questions on the menu, seldom done these days where, in some restaurants diners are so often seen as an inconvenience to the continuing conversation among the staff. This was a dining room with the professionalism of the staff equally as impressive as the surroundings. Wine and water were continually poured with the unobtrusive nature of great dining rooms, even more so with the napkins. When Sue went to powder her nose, a thinly veiled excuse to inspect the toilets, something she does in each and every establishment, especially restaurants, she was delighted to return bearing high marks for the loos, high praise indeed for the most demanding of judges. Even more so she was pleased to see that her napkin had been picked up, refolded and refreshed, and placed carefully in readiness for her return.
The actual dining room was a picture to behold, dark wooden floors, resplendent with chandeliers, dark wooden chairs counterbalanced by the crisp white tablecloths, delicate china plates and highly polished glasses. Every table had a large, and I mean large, flower vase complete with fresh flowers in each, tall enough to appreciate as well as admire. The red walls were adorned with both modern abstract paintings as well as character paintings from a previous century, a reflection of the food, a fusion of the past and the present, style, character allied to creative genius.
Our wine chosen and tasted successfully, an Australian Red with body, we set about the pleasure of our main courses. Sue selected the Maple glazed confit of Barbary Duck Leg with Cherry Tomatoes and a Sweet Burnt Orange sauce. Not normally a dish chosen Sue was attracted by the description and succumbed to the charm of the words which, she said afterwards, were more than matched by the taste and quality of the food.
I went for the Risotto of Wild Mushrooms, Cashel Blue Cheese and Toasted Pinenuts, Dressed Organic Rocket Leaves and Basil Oil, quite a mouthful to say, heaven to taste. Readers will know of my love of risotto, more often as a starter, less so for a main course. I liked the sound of the risotto; I loved the taste and texture of the dish, one which can really test the ability of the chef. The freshness of the mushrooms, the flavour of the cheese, the support of the pinenuts and the accompaniment of the Rocket leaves, his compared favourably with my main course risotto at Le Manoir, under the eagle and experienced eye of Raymond Blanc.
Praise indeed!
Fresh fruit followed, picked that day, with coffees, followed by a couple of forced Midletons in the bar area where we spent some time with Kevin, discussing the hotel, restaurant and life in general. He is a totally charismatic character with a wicked sense of humour. He is a driven chef, with passion for all he attempts. Despite the great pressures on his time he gave freely of his views, observations and hopes for the future, including a Spa to be added to the Dunbrody Empire in the near future. Success is a natural achievement for Kevin, I am convinced that he will be one of the next superstars of the culinary world; his humour allied to his creative talents in the kitchen should ensure his smooth transition onto our television screens and in the international press.
He thoroughly deserves that and more.
Despite the fame of their late breakfasts, served until noon every day, we rose early for a last walk with Kevin, viewing aspects of the grounds not seen the day before. We enjoyed a continental breakfast before Sue offered to get the luggage before we left, eager to have a last view of her favourite suite. A tear in her eye was barely visible as we left, with magical moments from Dunbrody stored forever.
The lure of Waterford Glass was just sufficient to tear Sue away from her favourite place.
Cookery School
Kitchen gardens and orchard
Celebrity Chef, Queen Mary
Dunbrody also offers an acknowledged Cookery School, a detached building completely furnished for the needs of visitors who would like to perfect an area of weakness in their culinary repertoire. A large open cooking area with inbuilt hobs, preparation areas and seating ensure the cookery school, operated by Executive Chef Kevin Dundon and his team ensure that Cookery School students receive the same level of comfort and attention as guests within the hotel.
Dunbrody Country House & Restaurant Arthurstown New Ross Co Wexford
www.dunbrodyhouse.com
On to Ahernes Seafood Bar
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Alan McColm is QFOL's Restaurant Critic and Travel reviewer. Alan is working all over the country ... more
