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Alan McColm

Alan McColm is QFOL's Restaurant Critic and Travel reviewer. Alan is working all over the country ... more

 

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Brunello Restaurant, Kensington

 

 

Brunello Restaurant
Baglioni Hotel
60 Hyde Park Gate
Kensington

Tel: 0207 368 5700
www.baglionihotellondon.com


There are times in the life of a restaurant writer where a restaurant visit can be deemed a chore, the place blending into the surroundings, the menu dull and uninviting, the food average and the memory of the entire evening failing to last until the following morning. This visit certainly did not come into that category, rather the opposite; this was in fact a joy from beginning to end, with some stunning examples of professionalism, luxury and style, both in the hotel and in the restaurant itself.

The hotel itself, situated opposite the park in Kensington, opened last March, and it a shining example of modern design, Italian style, and flair and passion.

I had a glass of chilled white whilst awaiting my guest for the evening, giving me the opportunity to savour the delights of the menu, created and signed by the Chef, Stefan Stecca, and it was one of the most fascinating seen in recent months. The menu, with all dishes listed in Italian and English, reflected the range and vision of the chef and came under the following sections, starters, soups, pasta and risotto, fish, meat and desserts. A very wide range of dishes, reflecting choice for everyone in this stylish and warm restaurant, choice for the diner, differing dishes to reflect the talents of the team within the kitchen.

A selection of breads came with the menu, beautifully arranged, and with a variety on offer the danger here was spoiling the overall meal by succumbing to the charms of the bread, nibbling in moderation was required!

I had the roasted langoustines, fine herbs salad with sweet pepper sauce, not a complex dish but presented like an artists palette, colours, textures and tastes, individually interesting, collectively an award winner. Prawns of the highest order, carefully and lovingly roasted, and matched alongside the vibrant colours of the salad, supported by the lightness and moisture of the sweet pepper sauce. Heaven!

My partner in crime chose the pan fried scallops and white asparagus, chantarelle mushrooms and sage vellute, with the scallops lightly fried, retaining the best of their magnificent flavour and taste, and combining well with the unusual white asparagus. Washed down with our chilled white wine this was indeed a fine start to the evening.

Main courses were already ordered, but seeing others delivered to adjoining tables added to the difficulty in selection as well as to the appreciation of the finished dishes. Additional temptation was being delivered to the left and to the right as we savoured the sumptuous surroundings of this wonderful hotel.
My dining companion selected from the array of fish dishes available, the pan fried medallion of monk fish, warm artichoke vinaigrette, urchin meat and thyme infusion. The fish, neatly arranged on the stage with the supporting acts underneath, was described as

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