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Alan McColm

Alan McColm is QFOL's Restaurant Critic and Travel reviewer. Alan is working all over the country ... more

 

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Chennai Dosa Reading

Chennai Dosa Reading
73-75 Whitley Street
Reading Berkshire
RG2 0EG
www.chennaidosa.com


This brand new addition to the ever expanding menu of restaurants in Reading appeared a giant collection of contradictions upon initial inspection. In the middle of the biggest credit crunch in living memory there were more potential customers queuing outside waiting for entry than most local restaurants had inside, sat down eating. As I waited patiently to take a table with the mercurial manager Suresh I appeared to be in the midst of apparent culinary chaos with people, customers and staff alike, wandering in all directions and customers helping themselves to an extensive buffet, placing an interesting collection of food into small metal dishes arranged on a large tray.

The overriding feature of this new arrival, like a new baby, was in its popularity, I simply could not believe it, with extraordinary patience displayed by the increasing crowds outside the door, luckily the evening was warm, a sunny May evening where excited chat could be found inside and outside this latest addition to the expanding Chennai Dosa family from London.

This restaurant offered a great deal in return for very little, except patience, understanding and a little money, something the group are proud indeed, having been praised in a number of London magazines for their exceptional value for money, with meals on offer for a great deal less than four pounds.

Chennai Dosa offers South Indian food at highly affordable prices, a feature that was to provide a real eye opening experience to me, a seasoned professional food critic with a love of food and a keen appreciation of value for money. I had obviously arrived at the correct place to see this first hand, and to appreciate a selection of a range of their dishes alongside Manager Suresh, overseeing my continuing education in South Indian cuisine.

By the time I secured a table in the corner with Suresh the queue had stretched to twenty four people, I counted them clearly and correctly, I could not believe it! And this a restaurant without a wine list encouraging people to linger longer than necessary. Indeed this was the first restaurant I have been to for many a month where I did not inspect the wine list seeking joy and contentment, merely a suggestion from Suresh that a red and white may be available at a later date!

So I started my evening of culinary discovery with a classic drink from South India, a Mango Lassi, far healthier than my normal Sauvignon Blanc and full of flavour, in fact a delightful start to my evening of culinary education.

My Chennai Dosa teacher, Manager Suresh, took charge of the food order, using his enthusiasm, experience and my favourite foods to decide on a selection of dishes to represent a small but representative selection of the many dishes on offer.

I started my journey with Chicken 65, a dry spicy chicken dish, with the chicken deep fried after being marinated with a special house marinade. This was a quite stunning starter, one which would also easily serve as a main course along with rice and a selection of vegetables.

My next tasting plate brought me a Mutton Chukka, another spicy dish comprising boneless marinated lamb pieces, stir fried in a frying pan along with sliced onions, fresh green chillies, ginger and Indian spices, and again, a dish ideal as a starter but equally acceptable as a main dish with rice and vegetables. Both of my starting tasters were full of colour, with even greater depths of flavour and presented with real style.

Next on my list was an ever popular South Indian favourite, Vada, a savoury snack made from lentils, a healthy option indeed.. This was another welcome addition to my increasing knowledge of South Indian food under the continuing tutelage of the ever smiling Suresh, keen to ensure I left his hectic restaurant with an increased waistline as well as a smile on my face.

I was by this time in possession of my second non alcoholic drink of the evening, an entirely new departure for me. My passion fruit juice was chilled, bursting with flavour, and seemed at home with so much of the food I was enjoying, a lesson I should perhaps learn for future restaurant visits.

Following my earlier dishes came my Idly, perfectly steamed rice cakes served with a selection of chutneys and a vegetarian Indian curry known as Sambar. Very light they were delicious and, dipped into my vegetarian curry, provided again a welcome side dish, an even better starter to a culinary evening. Channa Masala, another gem of a small dish comprising spicy chickpeas, an integral aspect on any Indian restaurant menu, but here at Chennai Dosa a superb accompaniment to an extended meal or here as a stand alone dish.

My appreciation and love of this new found cuisine was making great progress with each successive dish placed in front of me. Whilst I was tasting each dish and discussing their relative merits alongside Suresh I was admiring the grit and determination of the ever expanding queue outside on the pavement, still bathed in mid evening summer sunshine, jealous of many of them.

Why?

Suresh was quick to point out that many of them had become regulars and, with their knowledge of the menu, many were content that in their mind at least, they were able to plot and plan their next hour or so dish by dish, anticipation in culinary terms is one of life's great delights. They were more than content to remain chatting, knowing that the evening was still young, the chef merely warming up with the current diners and within thirty minutes they would be sat enjoying their favourite dishes.

My evening still held a couple of delights on a plate, firstly the Chilli Paneer, marinated cottage cheese cooked in a frying pan with a combination of Indian and Chinese spices, again a dish to enjoy as a starter but also as an accompaniment, rich, spicy and with a glorious texture.

Lastly an entirely new dish to me as desserts, especially in an Indian restaurant has been few and far between. My culinary guide suggested and delivered a Payasam, a highly addictive South Indian version of our traditional rice pudding, full of rich sweet flavours, a counterbalance to the spicy flavours of earlier dishes.

Fun? A definite yes, here was an entertaining night watching a restaurant with apparent organised chaos, but with contented diners leaving with both a smile as well as money remaining in their pockets. Value for money this place has to be in the top few in the country. In terms of my personal learning path thanks to my inspirational teacher then Suresh provided me with an evening to remember, a culinary journey around his homeland and a whole host of tastes and dishes to savour.

I will be back soon to continue my learning curve without guidance, and hopefully to discover as many exciting and imaginative dishes as I encountered on my first visit.
Join the queue and you will find Chennai Dosa, you will no doubt find me there!


Alan McColm

Previous reviews...
Yang Sing
Le Raj
Britannia Spice
Ivy - London
Forest Mere
Benihana
The Rainforest Caf
Caf
San Marco
Sarastro
Pizza Express
Livebait Restaurant
Simpson's-in-the Strand Restaurant
Rez
Kathmandu 34
ZINC
The Moghul
Zaffran
Barajee
Whittlebury Hall
De Vere
Hook Tandoori
Yellow River - Reading
The Teak House Thai Restaurant
The Bina
Mela
River Walk
Alcazar, Paris
Mali Thai - Reading
The New Inn - Heckfield
Forbury's
The Birch, Woburn
Fishworks in Chiswick
A Fish Called Walter
Cookham Tandoori - Indian Cuisine
Bistro Roque in Kintbury, Berkshire
Bistro Roque, Kintbury in the evening
Oasis
Eurostar to Avignon
Tea at the Ritz
Cilantro in Reading
Sultan Balti Palace
Don Beni, Italian Restaurant
The Compleat Angler, Marlow (MacDonald Hotels)
Dominos Pizza
Sizzling Wok
Manray
Alcazar
The Angel
The Italian Job
Hunters - Ireland
Marlfield House - Ireland
Dunbrody Country House - Ireland
Ahernes Seafood Bar - Ireland
Longueville House - Ireland
Old Midleton Distillery - Ireland
Waldo
The White Lion at Crays Pond
Northcote Manor
Waitrose
The Square Bar & Grill
Waldo
Strada
Spice Route
Branston Hall Hotel
Vinopolis and Cantina Vinopolis
Peak Brasserie
Flackley Ash Hotel
Carluccio's in Reading
Careys Manor, New Forest
City Inn, Westminster
Gibbon Bridge Hotel, Forest of Bowland
Kloosters Hotel, Leuven, Belgium
The Tigers Pad
Armathwaite Hall Hotel
City InnWestminster
Carluccio
Chewton Glen Hotel, Spa and Country Club
The Lygon Arms
One Aldwych, London
Brunello Restaurant, Kensington
Agra Palace, Nuneaton
Juboraj
Bluebells Restaurant & Bar
The George and Dragon at Swallowfield
TTAVAS RESTAURANT
The Last Days of the Raj
Vespers - Apollo Hotel, Basingstoke
TTavas Restaurant
Simpson
Sunday Lunch at City Inn Westminster
Spice Bollywood Restaurant
The Tamarind Tree
Pizza Express
De Vere Slaley Hall,
Oakley Court Hotel
The Red House
Oakley Court Hotel
The White Hart Hotel Restaurant, Dorchester-on-Thames
Old Thai House, Newbury
Wyndham Grand Harbour Chelsea Hotel
Tiger Garden, Eton
Cinnamon Tree, Reading
Ragdale Hall, Melton Mowbray
Ha Ha Bar & Grill
Fishworks in Christchurch
Nando\'s Reading
Westover Hall Hotel
The White Hart, Dorchester
The Walter Arms, Sindlesham
Daruchini, Bracknell
Fredrick\'s Hotel, Restaurant and Spa
Chennai Dosa, Reading
Chennai Dosa, Reading
Rupali Restaurant, Newcastle-upon-Tyne
The Black Boy, Shinfield
Spice Bollywood Restaurant, Sunderland
The Palm Tree, Reading
Breakfast Disaster.