The Black Boy, Shinfield

 

 

The Black Boy Shinfield
Shinfield Road
Shinfield
Reading Berkshire
RG2 9BP
Phone: 01189 883 116
www.blackboyshinfield.co.uk

This is a pub restaurant I used to pass with great regularity on my frequent visits to Reading; one visit some years ago was enough to guarantee I would not return. The place lacked everything you would seek in a pub where food was on offer, lacking style, completely devoid of charm.

Some years on and more than a few people had said the place had changed, and for the better! What could a restaurant writer to do but rise to the challenge, find out more and make a return journey and put the positive comments to the test.

Claire Hawkins issued a kind invitation and she, together with her other half Mike, have just recently celebrated their first year at The Black Boy, with Mike in charge in the kitchen, the engine room of the operation whilst Claire runs front of house.

The place has been transformed since that fateful visit some eight or nine years ago. Claire and Mike now preside over a place that exudes style, offers a huge outside area at the rear of the building with wooden tables and chairs, attractive decking and heaters, and offers a menu which is both attractive and affordable. Not only that but within fifteen minutes of Sue and I taking our Friday evening table just after seven in the evening, the place was buzzing with customers, many of who were regulars, known to the young and enthusiastic staff.

Sue and I enjoyed a drink in the tastefully decorated bar with daughter Emma, enjoying the first of a number of drinks at the start of her birthday celebrations in Reading. A wooden floor, black and white prints on the wall, and, most pleasing of all, sufficient staff behind the bar serving drinks to those arriving to meet friends and family.

Our appointed table afforded us a corner position where we could see what was happening in the main dining area, and with a birthday table of ten as well as all other table almost filled at the same time the waiting staff and the engine room, the kitchen, were at full speed early in the evening. Despite the numbers the service was professional and unhurried, a team effort where service was with a smile, the maturity of the many customers counterbalanced by the youth of the waiting staff moving effortlessly from table to table. Their enthusiasm was matched by a highly professional approach, underlined by the arrival of a our chosen wine, sparkling water and glasses complete with both ice and lemon, basic elements missing on a recent visit to an established restaurant nearby.

Our wine, a highly popular and affordable Hardy's Riddle red was one of a range designed to sell, not merely be admired on the wine list, and proved enjoyable and satisfying.

Sue took the careful route, especially after seeing the size of some of the dishes arriving at adjoining tables, avoiding a main course. I could not avoid three starters but decided on one, skewers of scallops and tiger prawns on a bed of rocket leaves with garlic and lemon dressing a fresh, tasty and highly satisfying and healthy starter, setting the tone for the evening.

The trouble with such an advantageous position in the dining room is that you are able to see so many dishes arrive before my order has been despatched to the chef, I could easily have changed my order three or four times but remained firm and ordered the baked breast of chicken, filled with mozzarella, basil, tomato, wrapped in Parma Ham, light tomato coulis, new potatoes and vegetables. This was a sheer delight, a fusion of flavours and colours supporting the chicken. The tomato coulis supported but did not dominate the dish, the combination of the mozzarella and basil a culinary marriage of excellence and the overall effect provided me with a perfect end result, a contented diner.

Sue succumbed to the Specials Board, with a Sea Bream leaping from the board and ordered with relish. Moist, fresh and full of flavour this was supported by new potatoes and she also enjoyed a selection of mixed vegetables, including carrots, broccoli and ratatouille. There were more than a few fish dishes on offer, more than a pleasing touch for Sue, her experience in this aspect of restaurant menus is considerable indeed, and this latest dish certainly passed the test.

After such sizeable main courses the dessert menu may not be needed by many but we summoned up our collective energies to share the cappuccino creme brulee with whipped cream, washed down with a couple of strong coffees. This sharing of a delicious dessert is as much a reflection on the quantities on offer throughout the Black Boy menu as it is of our desire to pace ourselves, with so many restaurant visits on the horizon and a lack of exercise time available there is a need to take things easy at times.

The Black Boy does, in the words of a well known advertisement of television, what it says on the interactive web site menu. It delivers great pub food described as such. It is a world away from the world of pretence, the world of drizzle, miniature portions and inflated prices. Here you can relax with a selection of beers, enjoy light bites, or as we did, enjoy a highly enjoyable meal alongside affordable wines to match. This in a fine beamed full dining room alongside tables of discerning diners who reflected considerable experience in seeking value for money.

What you see is what you get here, and it is all the better for it! Claire and Mike have created a place that was full, the people were happy, the staffs were smiling and the tills were ringing.

Who could wish for more?

Alan McColm

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